True Blue Sam the Travelin' Man: Tuesday Torque: The Engine That Won World War II

Monday, February 5, 2018

Tuesday Torque: The Engine That Won World War II

7 comments:

Andrew said...: Well, if you discount the whole line of Pratt & Whitney Double Wasp engines, then, maybe.

But the fastest prop allied fighter was the P-47M, running that Double Wasp engine.

All our carrier planes were rotary engines, too. And our bombers.

Just the Merlin seems sexier than the big old 'clunky' Double Wasp.

The Merlin was a show girl. Expensive, lots of maintenance. The Double Wasp was a farm girl. Big, powerful, stays with you forever.; February 6, 2018 at 12:14 AM
Unknown said...: Juat watched this one this morning, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRVWyZf5MQk amazing piece of engineering.; February 6, 2018 at 9:03 AM
Merle said...: From what I have read, even Rolls Royce couldn't hold the tolerances that Packard did.....; February 6, 2018 at 1:24 PM
David aka True Blue Sam said...: You could argue the title; that's for sure! It grabbed my attention, and that is what Jay Leno meant to do. The engines of the Enola Gay and Bock's Car were pretty doggone important.; February 6, 2018 at 1:30 PM
Anonymous said...: Andrew, The Double Wasp was a radial engine, not a rotary. With a rotary the whole crankcase revolves and the airscrew is fastened to it, the crankshaft, pistons, and connecting rods are attached to the aircraft's firewall and do not rotate. The set-up is noted for the high gyroscopic forces imposed on the airframe by the rotating mass of the crankcase and only runs at full throttle - hence the distinctive "burp-burp" of the motor when landing, caused by the pilot blipping the ignition switch on and off to control airspeed. These engines operated with a total loss lubrication system and threw oil liberally over the airframe and pilot. The lubricant usually employed was castor oil which accounts for the unique smell of WW1 airplanes. Rotaries were commonplace on WW1 fighter aircraft but died out as more powerful inline and radial engines were developed. Happy landings!; February 6, 2018 at 5:18 PM
Andrew said...: Anon - Ah, carp. Dagnabit. I hate when what I want to say gets sidetracked and mixed up. Yes. Radial. Radial.

Rotaries, well, yes, WWI and boy, did they throw out lots of oil.

Yikes. Big mistake. Big. Huge. And I own making that stupid statement. Gaaahhhhhh!!!

Thanks for correcting me. I knew the word felt 'wrong' but it was all that came out and I shoulda fact-checked myself.; February 8, 2018 at 10:05 PM
David aka True Blue Sam said...: Andrew: This happens to me all the time! I will post, be down the road and realize I screwed it up somehow. Autocorrect on my phone does it to me all the time. People are good here, so you have no worries!; February 9, 2018 at 9:28 PM

Rules To Live By

Firearms; Col. Jeff Cooper's Rules
1. All guns are always loaded.
2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy.
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.

Knives
1. Never cut toward yourself.
2. Always cut away from yourself.
3. Never cut yourself.

AND
If you drop a knife or gun, let it fall!

Chainsaws

1. Always wear your safety gear when running your saw: hard hat, eye, face, hearing protection, cut resistant protection for your legs, heavy boots, gloves (depending on work conditions).

2. Safety devices on the saw must be in working order: front hand guard,chain brake, chain catcher, throttle lockout, and right hand guard.

3. Hold the saw on the ground or lock it between your knees for starting. No 'Drop Starts.' Set the chain brake before cranking.

4. The engine must idle reliably without turning the chain.

5. The chain must be sharpened properly, including properly set depth gauges.

6. The chain must be adjusted to remove slack and still run freely.

7. The operator must understand the forces on different parts of the bar as the saw runs: push, pull, kickback and attack.

8. Both hands must always be on the saw when the chain is running. The thumbs must be wrapped around the handles. Both feet should be firmly planted on the ground.

9. The operator must always know where the end of the bar is, and what it's doing.

10. Don't let the upper (kickback) corner of the bar contact anything when the chain is running unless the tip has been buried with the lower corner.

11. Let off of the throttle before pulling out of a pinch on the top part of the bar.

12. Make a plan for every tree you cut. Assess hazards, lean, escape routes, forward cuts, and back cuts. Evaluate the forward or backward lean, and the side lean of every tree you cut. Know your limits.

13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.

14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.

15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.

16. Don't cut alone.

17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.

18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.

19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.

20. Do not cut above your shoulders.

21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.

22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.

23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!

24!! Quit When You Are Tired!

25!! Pause and review; reflect, when you are being pushed. You may be pushed into danger. Do not let pressure cause you to ignore safety rules!

Cutting dead and rotten trees is extremely risky, and your safety always comes down to basics and following the rules. Build a good hinge, even if there is just a thin shell to work with. Support the back side of the hinge with wedges if the tree is punky or hollow before you cut out the back. Don't fight side lean or back lean when cutting unsound trees. Release it quickly and get away from the stump. Tell your co-workers what your steps are before you crank your saw. You will live long.

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Monday, February 5, 2018

Tuesday Torque: The Engine That Won World War II

7 comments:

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