September 27, 1908, the first Model T was built. Henry Ford introduced it to the public in October, and by the time it went out of production nineteen years later, Henry had built 15,007,033 flivvers. This photo is copied from the back cover of 'Model T Memories' by Floyd Clymer, who was selling cars at age 11, and soon began selling Fords.
This book by Mr. Clymer is still in print, and can easily be found on the internet, but I am afraid the $2.00 price that I paid some forty years ago has inflated a bit. It's a good reference book, and entertaining, too.
Model T's came in many body styles, or as a bare chassis so you could add a body yourself. The early T's even came in colors other than black.
Many T owners repainted their car to have a prettier ride, and today's restorers are keeping that tradition alive.
These are my favorite T pictures. Above, my mother as a little girl is riding in the back of a T out for a joyride. Note the lady behind the wheel. The horn did not work on this car, so she has a cowbell to clear the road. Below is the T Truck my dad bought and restored (teaching me a lot in the process) to keep me out of trouble as a teenager.
UPDATE! Here is great oldie sung by Billy Murray, posted on YouTube by SilentBacchus.
Thank You! I enjoy your videos. I usually record the audio, then just paste a photo of the label for the video track. I play my records on a Brunswick with a microphone going to the computer. I use Audacity to record the sound.
Firearms; Col. Jeff Cooper's Rules 1. All guns are always loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot. 4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.
Knives 1. Never cut toward yourself. 2. Always cut away from yourself. 3. Never cut yourself.
AND If you drop a knife or gun, let it fall!
Chainsaws
1. Always wear your safety gear when running your saw: hard hat, eye, face, hearing protection, cut resistant protection for your legs, heavy boots, gloves (depending on work conditions).
2. Safety devices on the saw must be in working order: front hand guard,chain brake, chain catcher, throttle lockout, and right hand guard.
3. Hold the saw on the ground or lock it between your knees for starting. No 'Drop Starts.' Set the chain brake before cranking.
4. The engine must idle reliably without turning the chain.
5. The chain must be sharpened properly, including properly set depth gauges.
6. The chain must be adjusted to remove slack and still run freely.
7. The operator must understand the forces on different parts of the bar as the saw runs: push, pull, kickback and attack.
8. Both hands must always be on the saw when the chain is running. The thumbs must be wrapped around the handles. Both feet should be firmly planted on the ground.
9. The operator must always know where the end of the bar is, and what it's doing.
10. Don't let the upper (kickback) corner of the bar contact anything when the chain is running unless the tip has been buried with the lower corner.
11. Let off of the throttle before pulling out of a pinch on the top part of the bar.
12. Make a plan for every tree you cut. Assess hazards, lean, escape routes, forward cuts, and back cuts. Evaluate the forward or backward lean, and the side lean of every tree you cut. Know your limits.
13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.
14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.
15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.
16. Don't cut alone.
17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.
18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.
19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.
20. Do not cut above your shoulders.
21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.
22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.
23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!
24!! Quit When You Are Tired!
25!! Pause and review; reflect, when you are being pushed. You may be pushed into danger. Do not let pressure cause you to ignore safety rules!
Cutting dead and rotten trees is extremely risky, and your safety always comes down to basics and following the rules. Build a good hinge, even if there is just a thin shell to work with. Support the back side of the hinge with wedges if the tree is punky or hollow before you cut out the back. Don't fight side lean or back lean when cutting unsound trees. Release it quickly and get away from the stump. Tell your co-workers what your steps are before you crank your saw. You will live long.
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2 comments:
WOW, nice post and blog,I am so very complimented that you used my cruddy video!!!
Thank You! I enjoy your videos. I usually record the audio, then just paste a photo of the label for the video track. I play my records on a Brunswick with a microphone going to the computer. I use Audacity to record the sound.
Thanks again for the video!
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