Tap your file down frequently and brush it to knock chips out, and replace it when it no longer cuts well. File straight, so your top edge is correct. Watch your side angle. You should be pressing straight into the gullet as you stroke. Run your file too high and your chain won't cut well. Run it too low and the teeth will be grabby. Check your depth gauges so you get a good bite.
13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.
14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.
15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.
16. Don't cut alone.
17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.
18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.
19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.
20. Do not cut above your shoulders.
21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.
22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.
23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!
24!! Quit When You Are Tired!
2 comments:
I have a 35 year old Poulan that has a 24" bar that came with a 12 volt rotary sharpener that had a course stone and ceramic stone. There is a guide on the rotary tool and I can keep that chain sharp. It has always started on the second pull and I always run it out of fuel when I am through with it.
About 10 years back I inherited a Stihl that cam with two files and a file guide. The angle is slightly different than the Poulan but it is a larger chain. The carburetor was gummed up and I put a new $60 carb on it and treated it like the Poulan where I ran it dry when I was through with it. It is much easier to operated even though it it a bit heavier. Tightening the chain was easier and it would eat through hard would with little effort. It sat for three years and I couldn't get it to start so I carried it to the dealer. Another $60 carb and labor charge with the advice to pull the saw out at least once every 6 months and run it for 15 minutes, no need to run it dry if I am using Stihl premix but to change out the fuel every 6 months. It has worked fine following those instructions.
My take on this is the Stihl is for often Pro use and the Poulan is for the homeowner who used a saw once every year or two.
I have been watching Chickanic on YouTube and have picked up a few tips on fuel. Some stations mix way back from the pump, and your first gallon or more may not be what you are paying for. If it is a line direct from each tank, you still have previous product in the hose, so put some in your vehicle before you put any in your saw's gas can. Alcohol in the fuel will draw moisture from the atmosphere, and mess up your two cycle carburetor and engine. I know that I cooked a saw because of that. I run my saw year round, so the carbs usually don't cause much trouble.
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