Instructions for changing the heating element are to lift the drum out to access the element assembly. I had limited space, and I found a better way. Less disassembly = less chance of screwing up. Watch for sharp edges on sheet metal components.
13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.
14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.
15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.
16. Don't cut alone.
17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.
18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.
19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.
20. Do not cut above your shoulders.
21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.
22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.
23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!
24!! Quit When You Are Tired!
4 comments:
Very good work and I observed that the vent is both metal and taped with the correct tape.
Did you have to change it so that the vent comes out the side?
You did a skillful and well thought out repair job.
We had some major renovations done a few years back, and the contractor rerouted the dryer vent. He changed the vent in the dryer from the back to the side. Surgery on appliances always makes me nervous, but it sure beats doing plumbing projects. I dread those!
Why is it dryers break it is usually something that can be fixed and when a washer fails it is usually something that is not econo0mically feasible to fix?
The transmission on my 18 year old washer shredded itself two years ago. A new washer was cheaper than the parts to fix the old one. Six months ago the electronic igniter burned out on my 20 year old gas dryer. It was an $18 part that took just over an hour to swap out. Last month the dryer at the mountain cottage stopped heating. It was a $36 thermal fuse. it took 5 minutes of troubleshooting the 5 year old dryer that has been used maybe a dozen times to isolate the problem.
Clutches and transmissions are expensive. Dryers typically just use a belt around the drum for speed reduction. The high speed spin in a washer requires heavy duty parts. Then, there is water contamination that can get into expensive parts.
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