We don't often get to see presses working in manufacturing. Canning lids are an essential item that we use, and we have been using Superb lids this year. It's not high speed, so you can actually figure out what is going on.
John in Philly did some experimentation that will help all of you home canners out there. "A few moments after posting my comment to your blog, the part of my brain that just sits there and idly thinks about stuff nudged the other part of my brain and said, "I don't think it would be that hard to make a jar lid torque measuring device, and I have a plan."
About 20 minutes later I had assembled this.
Ignore the reading because I did not push the zero calibration button yet.
I used an electronic torque gauge that has been sitting in the toolbox ever since I splurged on a nicer torque wrench.
The little bit of blue you see at the top is a piece of grippy silicone used to open jars.
The test.
I stood on a step stool to get the same height as I would have been at when we are working on the kitchen counter and turned the band with slight downward pressure until the bottom of the eight ounce jar turned on the grippy pad.
The torque was less than one foot pound and when I removed the jar from the test stand I could easily turn the band a few more degrees with moderate pressure.
The next time I leaned pretty hard on the jar lid while turning, and when the jar bottom started to slide, the torque was around 1.3 foot pounds. This time I was only able to move the band a tiny bit more when I tested the tightness.
While canning I use a pair of neoprene dipped gloves from Harbor Freight to grip more easily, provide some degree of protection in the event of a jar breaking, and also to provide some amount of protection against the heat.
I wondered how to get a better feeling for the maximum torque we were putting on the jar lid without hurting myself.
I put some grip tape on the glass, and used a hose clamp to hold some wooden scraps against the grip tape.
I tightened the hose clamp until I could not make the blocks slip. Next time I will don those Kevlar gloves I wear when using the food mandolin. (That kitchen tool frightens me) But I was making progress and forgot.
This time I set the blocks against the clamps so that the blocks acted as anti-rotation keys and we set up another test.
When I twisted the band about as hard as I would have twisted it when canning, I got 4.2 foot pounds of torque.
We then broke down the test rig and put everything away.
When we do the next batch of canning I will
snug up the band to just a tiny bit more than fingertip tight.
Old dogs can learn lots of new tricks if they want too!
Thank you for posting the information.
John and Sharon"
Many Thanks, John and Sharon! This is information that will be helpful. University Extension offices used to teach home canning, test pressure gauges, etc., but those services have disappeared in Illinois. Learning how to can your produce requires careful research nowadays. Susan has become somewhat of an expert in canning the output of our garden.
That was pretty neat and I followed up on how tight the jar bands should be. According to Ball, several universities, and any number of groups in the food preservation industry, the right answer is far less than we have been tightening them, and the right answer is just a bit tighter than the fingertip technique demonstrated in Superb's testing lab.
If you absolutely want to know how much torque you need to apply, you could buy a torque gauge similar to the one in the lab for $1764.00. https://www.coleparmer.com/i/mark-10-mtt01-100-cap-torque-tester-100-lbfin-1600-ozfin-116-kgfcm-115-ncm-11-5-nm/2530402?PubID=UX&persist=true&ip=no&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNanBhDUARIsAAeIcAvJCtHJK3OWFWRCR8A8j8NAIRMzguXhFndudR6y7d6BaOP5bujIR-MaAhZHEALw_wcB
We will henceforth tighten the bands to the suggested fingertip plus one quarter turn. (I used "henceforth" for the first time ever in any sentence!)
Superb bands are on Amazon and the price is comparable to Ball bands. Once we run through our inventory, we will check them out.
Firearms; Col. Jeff Cooper's Rules 1. All guns are always loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot. 4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.
Knives 1. Never cut toward yourself. 2. Always cut away from yourself. 3. Never cut yourself.
AND If you drop a knife or gun, let it fall!
Chainsaws
1. Always wear your safety gear when running your saw: hard hat, eye, face, hearing protection, cut resistant protection for your legs, heavy boots, gloves (depending on work conditions).
2. Safety devices on the saw must be in working order: front hand guard,chain brake, chain catcher, throttle lockout, and right hand guard.
3. Hold the saw on the ground or lock it between your knees for starting. No 'Drop Starts.' Set the chain brake before cranking.
4. The engine must idle reliably without turning the chain.
5. The chain must be sharpened properly, including properly set depth gauges.
6. The chain must be adjusted to remove slack and still run freely.
7. The operator must understand the forces on different parts of the bar as the saw runs: push, pull, kickback and attack.
8. Both hands must always be on the saw when the chain is running. The thumbs must be wrapped around the handles. Both feet should be firmly planted on the ground.
9. The operator must always know where the end of the bar is, and what it's doing.
10. Don't let the upper (kickback) corner of the bar contact anything when the chain is running unless the tip has been buried with the lower corner.
11. Let off of the throttle before pulling out of a pinch on the top part of the bar.
12. Make a plan for every tree you cut. Assess hazards, lean, escape routes, forward cuts, and back cuts. Evaluate the forward or backward lean, and the side lean of every tree you cut. Know your limits.
13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.
14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.
15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.
16. Don't cut alone.
17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.
18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.
19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.
20. Do not cut above your shoulders.
21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.
22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.
23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!
24!! Quit When You Are Tired!
25!! Pause and review; reflect, when you are being pushed. You may be pushed into danger. Do not let pressure cause you to ignore safety rules!
Cutting dead and rotten trees is extremely risky, and your safety always comes down to basics and following the rules. Build a good hinge, even if there is just a thin shell to work with. Support the back side of the hinge with wedges if the tree is punky or hollow before you cut out the back. Don't fight side lean or back lean when cutting unsound trees. Release it quickly and get away from the stump. Tell your co-workers what your steps are before you crank your saw. You will live long.
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1 comment:
That was pretty neat and I followed up on how tight the jar bands should be.
According to Ball, several universities, and any number of groups in the food preservation industry, the right answer is far less than we have been tightening them, and the right answer is just a bit tighter than the fingertip technique demonstrated in Superb's testing lab.
If you absolutely want to know how much torque you need to apply, you could buy a torque gauge similar to the one in the lab for $1764.00.
https://www.coleparmer.com/i/mark-10-mtt01-100-cap-torque-tester-100-lbfin-1600-ozfin-116-kgfcm-115-ncm-11-5-nm/2530402?PubID=UX&persist=true&ip=no&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNanBhDUARIsAAeIcAvJCtHJK3OWFWRCR8A8j8NAIRMzguXhFndudR6y7d6BaOP5bujIR-MaAhZHEALw_wcB
We will henceforth tighten the bands to the suggested fingertip plus one quarter turn.
(I used "henceforth" for the first time ever in any sentence!)
Superb bands are on Amazon and the price is comparable to Ball bands. Once we run through our inventory, we will check them out.
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