This is a quick look at what optics can do for you if you plan to use a handgun for hunting. It is important to consider what you will be hunting, and what you want your limitations to be. Take a look at the photos below, and you can see how the sights on your pistol affect your accuracy, and your maximum effective hunting range.
The iron sights on the Single Six are clearly not good enough if I want to nail squirrels at 25 yards. However, this level of accuracy is fine if I want to be able to pop a coyote while I am out on a woods walk. This level of accuracy is also good enough for dealing with coons, possums, and skunks, if I hold my range to about fify feet.
A red dot scope puts the target and your sights in the same plane, and allows you to see clearly, without magnification. You can kill squirrels with this combination, but 25 yards is pushing the envelope a bit. If your squirrels are just 40 to 50 feet up in a tree, this type of sight will bring home the bushytails.
Contenders shoot at least as good as rifles, but you need magnification to utilize the accuracy built into these pistols. This barrel and scope combination was assembled over thirty years ago, and it still works just fine. It is great for blasting starlings that land on the barn roof, and I haven't punctured the tin roof yet; but that flyer on the bottom tells me I had better not get cocky.
The 10/22 was bought used over twenty years ago with a Simmons 3-9X scope already installed, on tall see through mounts. I have recently upgraded it with a Volquartsen target hammer kit, which has given it a two pound seven ounce trigger pull. Breathing moves the crosshairs up and down when you are shooting a rifle; much more than when you are shooting a pistol off of a rest. At least that is my excuse for not making a one hole group with this rifle off of the bench. Anyway, I'm good for 25 yards on squirrels with my rifle, if I can find a good rest. Coons, coyotes, skunks and possums had better look out.
Think about what type of shooting/hunting you will be doing before you decide what type of optics you want to put on top of your handgun. I like the red dot on the Mk III because of the type of shooting I do, but if I wanted to make it my squirrel gun, I would change to a scope with magnification. As it is set up now, it does just fine on varmints around the farmstead, and it is good for offhand recreational shooting.
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Firearms 1. All guns are always loaded. 2. Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy. 3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot. 4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it.
Knives 1. Never cut toward yourself. 2. Always cut away from youself. 3. Never cut yourself.
AND If you drop a knife or gun, let it fall!
Chainsaws
1. Always wear your safety gear when running your saw: hard hat, eye, face, hearing protection, cut resistant protection for your legs, heavy boots, gloves (depending on work conditions).
2. Safety devices on the saw must be in working order: front hand guard,chain brake, chain catcher, throttle lockout, and right hand guard.
3. Hold the saw on the ground or lock it between your knees for starting. No 'Drop Starts.' Set the chain brake before cranking.
4. The engine must idle reliably without turning the chain.
5. The chain must be sharpened properly, including properly set depth gauges.
6. The chain must be adjusted to remove slack and still run freely.
7. The operator must understand the forces on different parts of the bar as the saw runs: push, pull, kickback and attack.
8. Both hands must always be on the saw when the chain is running. The thumbs must be wrapped around the handles. Both feet should be firmly planted on the ground.
9. The operator must always know where the end of the bar is, and what it's doing.
10. Don't let the upper (kickback) corner of the bar contact anything when the chain is running unless the tip has been buried with the lower corner.
11. Let off of the throttle before pulling out of a pinch on the top part of the bar.
12. Make a plan for every tree you cut. Assess hazards, lean, escape routes, forward cuts, and back cuts. Evaluate the forward or backward lean, and the side lean of every tree you cut. Know your limits.
13. Clear your work area and your escape path of brush, vines, and other hazards that can trip you or catch your saw.
14. Escape from the bullseye when the tree tips. 90% of accidents happen within 12 feet of the stump. Go more than 15 feet, and stay out of the bullseye until things stop falling.
15. Keep spectators away more than twice the height of the tree in the direction it will fall.
16. Don't cut alone.
17. Keep your body and the swamper's out of the line of the bar in case of a kickback.
18. Set the brake when taking over two steps or when moving through tripping hazards. Keep your trigger finger off of the throttle when you are moving.
19. DO NOT operate a chainsaw from a ladder! Operating with your feet off the ground requires special training.
20. Do not cut above your shoulders.
21. Springpoles must be shaved on the inside of the apex between the ascending and descending sides. If the apex is higher than you shoulders, stand under the springpole and cut it low on the descending side. It will release upward, away from you.Leaning and heavily loaded poles that are too small to bore cut for a hinge should be shaved on the compressed side until they fold.
22. Do not cut a tree that is holding up a lodged tree. Do not work under a lodged tree. Think about a mouse trying to steal the cheese out of a trap.
23. Instruct your swampers and helpers to NEVER approach you from behind or the sides to within the reach of your saw when you are cutting. If you pull out of a cut with the chain running, or have a severe kickback, the swamper can be killed if he is coming up behind you!
AND: 24!! Quit When You Are Tired! Thanks, Reed; don't know how I missed this one.
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